Andrew Jefford: This moderately coloured wine has delicate plum-sloe fruit with a stealthy, wraith-like, almost floral aromatic style. Greater concentration of fruit than the Echézeaux, and slightly lower tannins make for a more refreshing mouthful, with better preserved acidity. Nonetheless, 2003 provides a sense of lurking fire, and the plum fruit is lightly roasted. Vivid, dense, well-structured finish suggests this will age well, and its graceful style conceals a complexity and concentration that only become apparent in the finish.