Neil Beckett: At this domaine, the progression from village to premier cru to grand cru is as it should be – upwards rather than downwards or sideways, as is often the case elsewhere in this topsy-turvy vintage. Another aromatic dimension here: elegant and finely fruited, with fragrant lift. Richly layered, smooth and supple texture, the greater concentration of fruit supporting more easily the massive, numbing tannins. As if some of the energy and freshness was spent in standing up to these, though, there is a slight dip on the dry end finish. Still, there is enough fruit on the mid-palate to hope that this will be a case of reculer pour mieux sauter.