Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Firm tangy nose, peaches, quite mineral. Rich, creamy, sleek, concentrated, with fine underlying acidity that swells up on the mid-palate to balance a hint of sweetness. Still youthful, tight and invigorating, adding up to considerable complexity. Quite good length. 16.5

Simon Field: A surprising explosion of flavour, pineapple and exotic fruits. The illusion of sweetness, if indeed it is an illusion, is a first-class piece of prestidigitation. There is alcohol here, following the vintage, and a clean but strangely unsatisfactory finish. Hors classe. 15.5