Nicolas Belfrage: Bright, Porty nose with fruit coming through. Also on the palate but slips on the finish. 12

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Reserved nose. Q uite smoky, with good fruit lurking. Very rich, sumptuous, full-bodied with very ripe tannins. Good acidity keeps it lively. A splendid mouthful, well balanced and packed with fruit. Good length. 18

Alison Buchanan: Deeply coloured, rich black plum with garnet notes at the rim. Non-vinous, spiritous nose. Polish, pencil shavings, mineral and spice. Heady spice on the palate, and dark earthy fruit. The nose is very closed, but the palate is assertive, fresh, heavily extracted, yet balanced. 16.5