Stephen Brook: Opaque inky-red. It smells like Syrah! Gorgeous blackberry fruit but atypical Sangiovese. Big, fat and ripe. Blackberries and plums, mint and pepper. Huge tannins but low acidity. Imposing, but is this really Sangiovese? Very good length. 18

Alison Buchanan: A sense of wonder, but for the wrong reasons. This is as black as the Prince of Hell’s waistcoat. An astonishing colour, totally opaque and firm to a very, very tight black-cherry rim. This is extraordinary after such time, both with the colour and the nose, which is rich in primary fruit - blackberry, blueberry - with toasted notes and volatile spirit. Very Port-like and peppery. On the palate - drink it and pour it over the meat. Massively extracted - soupy - and saved only by the tannins. It must be a tiny producer, but this is just too much. International high price probably, but too hefty and out of balance for me. 13