Stephen Brook: Deep red. Rich, luxurious nose, with well-judged oak. Plums and black cherries. Rich, with firm acidity. Quite extracted, but the tannins hold it in check, though there is a slight dryness on the finish. Still youthful. Good length. 16.5

Alison Buchanan: Deep plum -garnet, richly textured and firm to the garnet rim. Very odd nose, a com bination of potpourri and dried mushrooms. Not particularly vinous, and not attra ctive. On the palate, it is sweeter, but seems to be transitional with some primary perfumed character, the same dried fruit and a clipped finish. The problem is whether to drink it now with the austerity of the tannins. 12