Nicolas Belfrage: Off-note on the nose - drains. No better on second bottle. 7

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Dense, oaky nose, a touch of dill as well as mocha. Very rich and rounded. Damsons. Highly con centrated and rather extracted, giving a hint of bitterness, but undeniably impressive, with a long, tannic finish. 17.5

Alison Buchanan: Deep black ruby with a degraded rim (first bottle was faulty). Hot, spicy nose of cocoa, autumnal fruit, polish and leather. The palate is ripe and richly textured, more advanced than many and pleasurable now - sweet, with ripe, supple, well-integrated tannins. 14