Andrew Jefford: Pale water-gold. Very fresh fruit aromas, with plenty of youthful, bready richness beneath. Intense but a touch monotonous in style: it lacks aromatic or fruited amplitude. Pure and single -noted; flute -like. Finely drawn, though. 15

Simon Larkin : Quite deep lemon in hue. Real cooking-apple quality on the nose, moderately lifted. This is more like it: vibrant appley fruit, mouthwatering, with telltale slate overtones. There is something to get excited about here: fruit and acidity strike a fine harmony and slatey mineral notes add complexity. Equally, the fruit shows fine persistence. Very good indeed. 16.5

Alexander Scott: Herbal, even perhaps a greenish vegetal note (was full phenolic ripeness quite achieved?), then a twist of citrus peel, especially grapefruit. This seems to be from quite a different origin. Satisfyingly savoury on the palate with even a touch of youthful austerity (grapefruit again); fairly well sustained and grippy at the end. Understated, but none the worse for that. I like it more each time. Some future. 15