Michel Bettane: Golden-green tones. More straightforward, with a chalky character. A crisp, taut blanc de blancs, nevertheless - neat and well crafted, with terrific breeding. Lots of depth - very thoroughbred. 17

Simon Larkin : Pale-gold hue. Lazy bead of bubbles. Creamy white fruit and a flowery edge. Good depth and soft creamy mousse, with pleasing texture and a sense of harmony. Toasty nuances develop on the palate, though the wine retains a sense of purity and poise. Very impressive, with ripe citrus revealed on a remarkably persistent finish. Very fine, with a bright future ahead. 16

Anthony Rose: Youthful pale gold with green glints. Fresh, ripe, rich and honeyed nose, good persistent flavours with touch of honeycomb; nice cushion of creamy mousse, elegantly styled, with some Chardonnay finesse to it, although just fading a little on the finish. 15