Michel Bettane: Grey-gold colour. Lovely clean, generous nose. A fresh, neat wine, perfect as an aperitif. 16

Simon Larkin : Light in appearance, with aromas of lean delicate citrus. The palate is taut, with marked acidity evident, and quite aggressive in its own way. A mouth watering leanness is discernible, and a clean, creamy quality on the palate. Not exceptional, lacks thrust on the finish. 14.5

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow. Little nose, very shy. A clean, crisp, aperitif-style Champagne with citrussy acidity and not a great deal of length or depth. 12