Michel Bettane: Very pure, light straw colour. Simple yeast autolysis character - very neat, with toasty aromas. Rounded with good balance and harmony but not much finesse. Technically well made, though, and a splendid table wine. 14

Simon Larkin : Slightly deeper hue than [the Michel Arnoud NV ]. Restrained, discreet fruit aromas, but not clearly expressed. Lacks purity and finesse. The mousse is vaguely aggressive and the fruit not suggestive of ripeness. A disjointed quality pervades. Breadth and modest weight are discernible, but there is little to comment on beyond this. 11

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow-gold in colour. Quite intense on the nose, a touch of honey. Good mouth-filling mousse, quite creamy, rich and intense, in a clean, crisp and elegant style, with well-balanced acidity and freshness. Attractive, elegantly styled fruit with a youthful feel to it, and plenty of time to go. 15.5