Michel Bettane: Pale straw colour; flat (no bubbles). Neutral in character, slightly doughy and heavy, with pronounced dosage and not enough acidity. 11

Simon Larkin : Golden in hue; modest bead. Understated aromas of creamy-natured fruit. The palate shows modest expression of simple, ample toasty fruit and a slightly aggressive mousse. An angular quality emerges here that does little to assist the impression of harmony. A sound example. 13

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow -gold with greenish glints; steady, persistent bead. Some age on the nose, with a proportion of reserve wine in the blend. Soft mousse, appley fruit, quite winey in style, with the mousse fading a little early in the glass, but clean and elegantly balanced with good length of flavour and richness. 15.5