Michel Bettane: Light golden colour, tiny bubbles. Autumnal bouquet but somewhat coarse and rustic on the nose, with bitter notes of defective autolysis due to oxidation. Oxidised finish, too. Displays strong terroir character but left me with an impression of bitterness. 11

Simon Larkin : Good clarity, pale-lemon appearance, soft bead. More restraint in terms of aromas here. Creamy, toasty nuances. Modest breadth, somewhat-neutral aspect to the fruit, but also some discreet minerality. Soft, pillowy if slightly directionless mousse and modest to good finish. A respectable cuvee. 13.5

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow -gold; persistent bead of small bubbles. Fresh, clean, citrussy nose. Quite mouth-filling mousse on the mid ­ palate. Clean, crisp and refreshingly dry, with good acidity and a lightness of touch in elegant aperitif style. 14