Michel Bettane: Very pure, light straw colour. Toasty, bready aromas, plus a lactic whiff of baby vomit. Good vinosity, well-integrated mousse but a touch of bitterness. Decent, but a bit commonplace. 10

Simon Larkin : Similar deep hue as for [the Paul Dethune NV Brut], Fresh, bready citrus aromas, quite inviting. Broad, amply textured style, with an exuberant mousse. Quite bold, upfront and mouth-filling. A heavy toasty edge to the fruit. This lacks some sense of poise and balance, and cuts a little short on the finish. 12

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow-gold, youthful-looking, with a steady bead. Undertones of toast. Distinctly appley flavoured, and a little on the coarse side, with crisp, almost eye-watering acidity and overall lacking balance. 10