Andrew Jefford: Deep red-black, with slightly less glycerol than the Offley. Lots of vivid fruit here, with a slightly high-toned, almost petrol note. Big, thick, welcoming and promising: all the virtues of '97, and sure enough this is very serious Port indeed. Yet the competition is so hot in this vintage that I have to hold back, based slightly on the fatness and heat of its fruit, which perhaps lacks the enchantment for the long term. 16

Simon Field: Broad and teasing on the nose, this wine has an unusual, almost oxidative rusticity, such is the breadth and inevitable lack of focus on the palate. Not without appeal, the wine falls a little short on the criteria of complexity and concentration. 13.5

Richard Mayson: Deep centre, purple rim. Rather harsh green aromas that need time to integrate. Big, rich, peppery, dusty fruit and dusty tannins. Quite hard, edgy and austere. Drink 2015 plus. 14