Simon Field: Deep inky colour, serious vinous nose of forest floor and expensive leather. Rather severe. On the palate, the pleasure principle is held back, within a straitjacket of brooding fruit and tannin. A weighty but perhaps rather charmless individual that may be coaxed into smiling over the longer period. 15

Andrew Jefford: Very dark, leggy and glycerous. Extraordinary how good Vintage Port just setting off on its journey to maturity can smell like Bordeaux (and more convincingly than any other red wine, even Cabernet-based). This is darkly curranty, just opening up and beginning to respire with something a little earthier and more savoury than the fresh fruits of youth. Dense, concentrated, deep, packed with rich fruits and laden with weighty yet welcoming tannins. Lovely chocolate finish here. First-class vineyard quality. Mouth-filling and satisfying, yet with a good 10-15 years ahead. 16.5

Richard Mayson: Very deep opaque centre, thin crimson rim, still looking remarkably youthful. Tight and withdrawn on the nose, with underlying power and concentration. Very fine, dense, intense morello-cherry and dark-chocolate flavours, with wonderfully fresh, pure fruit on the finish, withatouch of gum cistus. Outstanding. Drink 2007-2025 plus. 18.5