Simon Field: Light colour and quite gentle and attractive on the nose. The palate is straightforward, not entirely in balance, but entirely quaffable now. Pleasingly sweet and tame. 15

Andrew Jefford: Very pale, light and clear. Pretty rapid evolution: very coffee-cream. Not unpleasant, but it's reached the finishing line very quickly. Exuberant and lively, but rather unsubtle. Vivid, meaty, tangy, but missing that core of fruited purity and that single-minded tannic drive of the best. 13.5

Richard Mayson: Good mid-deep ruby centre, thin garnet rim. Closed and withdrawn but with underlying power and ripeness. Attractive, ripe, fleshy fruit - great primacy - with a firm tannic backbone to support it. Drink now (just) to 2025 plus. 17.5