Stephen Brook: Very ripe, intense nose, touch of honey, has some botrytis. Fresh, lean, crisp, intense; lovely fruit here, very pure, very racy for the vintage; stylish and has immense charm; should develop well. Very good length. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: As much green as gold here. Elegant and flowery, though leashed, restrained. Soft, creamy, full, but the sugars have the upper hand (an ever-present threat with 2003) and the minerality and acid sap are rather overwhelmed. Nonetheless pretty and gratifying Mosel. 14

Jancis Robinson: Some correct botrytis on the nose and much more tension of refreshing acidity than in most. Still quite chewy, but there is energy (and sulphur!) here. Yet still the ‘cool’ minerality one would expect from a Mosel. Chewy, but in a good way. Exciting wine - though not that sweet for an Auslese. Drink 2009-22. 17.5