Stephen Brook: Odd nose for Riesling, like overripe mango. Very sweet, but with a soupy texture; no elegance here, but a big mouthful of sweet fruit; one-dimensional, boiled-sweet finish, 11

Andrew Jefford: Pale green-gold. Some sweet freshness here, but it is hardly charging out of the glass. A vivid, intense mouthful, but for me the sweetness is very cloying and candied. The overall effect is heavy and confectionery-like, and very like Australian or Californian late-harvest Riesling. In other words, the exquisite subtlety and razor-blade balance of great German Riesling has disappeared. Was 2003 just too hot? 14

Jancis Robinson: Absolutely classic Riesling Auslese - very pure and unadorned, almost naked. Floral, rich and honeyed. Am I being pretentious to suggest a pre-Raphaelite sensibility? Probably, But this is Edwardian wine. Traditionalists should love it. Needs a bit of time. More obvious acidity than the top Rheinhessen wines. Drink 2 0 08-22.17.5