Michael Schuster: Fresh, restrained, particularly scented nose (30% Cabernet Franc here); beautifully balanced, rich, fleshy, medium-full wine with a barely perceptible tannin; freshly sweet, ripe cherry and red currant fruit; intensely scented, subtle, racy wine. Not strong, but with abundant perfume, considerable complexity, great finesse, wonderfully fresh definition and marked aromatic persistence. Almost Burgundian in its silky texture, combination of delicacy and intensity, and dominance of scent as savour. Complete and satisfying, utterly devoid of excess, and, if you like this style (as I do), something very special. 18+

Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Full, with harmonious tannins, but by no means brilliant, and certainly no better than the Lafleur-Petrus of this vintage. 16?