Simon Larkin : Revealing fresher aromatics than the 1997, this has far better poise on the palate. Vibrant deep cherry, bitter cherry, this shows more depth and complexity. Relatively tightly wound, this possesses some serious structure and bodes well for future development. Though very assertive now, this should be at its best from 2005 to 2012. 15

Nicolas Belfrage: Similar style to the 1997, withatouch better acidity. No particular Nebbiolo character, but less overweight than its partner. As a general point, 1996 seems to mitigate the excesses of the modernists in 1997. In 1997, the people inclined to go over the top went way over the top, and the result is wines lacking balance and typicality. 1996s from traditionalists are, on the other hand, more difficult to deal with, but will end up in the long run better than any of the 1997s. 14.5