Stephen Brook: Discreet pear nose, with a leesy tone. Rich, full-bodied, plump, weighty but not flabby, concentrated, with a long vigorous finish. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale glinting gold. Taut, tight, smoky, very pure and long; a soft sweetness behind that faint smoke. Elegant and assured. Fresh, light, clean, slightly less concentrated and assertive than the nose suggested. Pure lime fruits; some minerals after. 16