Stephen Brook: Dumb nose. Full-bodied and robust, quite concentrated, distinctly tannic but not harsh. Rugged and inexpressive now; the chunky finish undermines any finesse. Quite long. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid-depth of clear red. Certainly the best aromatic profile of the Cacheux set: perfumed fruits and a tarry fullness, too. A sense of layering, which bodes well. Brisk, incisive, edgy, vivid: more acidic than many red wines this year. The tightness of the acid structure combines with the tannins and relatively simple fruit style to give a rather lurid, black-and-white flavor spectrum. 14.5