Stephen Brook: Sweet, delicate, but oaky nose. Although only medium-bodied, it shows the robustness favored by this house. Quite earthy; has grip and seems austere now, and lacks optimal length. 15

Andrew Jefford: Clear, full red. Dark, quite meaty fruits here, with some evident oak. Firm-hewn, statuesque, broad-shouldered, yet appetizing, too. Full-flavored but texturally a little dry and overextracted, with an unusual, raisiny quality to the fruit. Somehow the juicy sweet charm of the vintage has gone missing. 13.5