Stephen Brook: Dumb nose. Very rich, full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful; spicy, tastes of bruised apples. Tangy, mineral, vigorous, with no flab and a long sustained finish. 18

Andrew Jefford: Green-gold. The oak is perhaps a little overstated here; there is some neutral lemon beneath. Intense, forthright, firm, lean—plain, lemony fruit stitched into clean oak. This wine fits the bill in terms of style and character but, at this stage, has little subtlety or finesse. Doesn’t taste to me like a $200/£100 bottle-in-waiting. 14