Nicolas Belfrage: Deep color with brick rim. Oak dominates nose. Good fruit behind but trying too hard to please international market. Coffee grounds and bitter twist on finish. Maybe drinking by 2012, to 2020, but now lacks charm. 12

Roy Richards Blackcurrant jam, confit but appealing in a rather earthy way. Second nose even more intense, but has nothing to do with Brunello. Will please some, and would be a good Cornas. Marked down for lack of typicity. 12

Franco Ziliani: Rich, complex nose, with perhaps overripe fruit, some licorice and mineral, aromatic herbs. The palate is well balanced, with little structure from fruit and not oak, good length, roundness, balance, rich persistence and a solid, intense, savory finish. Easy to drink now, but with good ageing potential. 16.5