Nicolas Belfrage: Deepest color yet, very nearly opaque, with orangeing on rim. Strawberry and raspberry aromas, surprizingly low acidity, tannins svelt – but there’s a bit too much internationality about it. Fades. Trying too hard to please Mr P. Five to ten years. 14

Roy Richards Vegetal, decaying matter – gets worse. Compost heap. This is like the worst kind of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, horsehair and sweet. 8

Franco Ziliani: Intense color but the nose is totally unbalanced: sweet, overripe notes, but green unripe tannins, with no elegance or harmony on the palate. A totally disappointing finish.