Alison Buchanan: Confected nose with blown, waxed fruit. This character is reflected on the palate, which just lacks substance, clarity of fruit and direction. There are hints of stewed fruit and pastry but it is rather simple really and dull. 13

Alex Hunt: Reticent, grassy nose. Some peachy palate richness, but disjointed against the very lemony acidity. 14

Andrew Jefford: Water–gold. Strange, rather puttyish aromas. Nasty: hollow and varnishy. Serious failings here. 5