Alison Buchanan: Lovely yellow–gold in color, this has a strangely stalky character given its age. The nose and palate are fine, relatively simple and straightforward but hardly an earth–mover. Vague orchard fruits and herbal character continue through to finish. 14

Alex Hunt: Lean and oddly youthful, this hasn’t so much developed over time as hardened. Neither vivid and fruity nor soft and evolved. 11

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Cool, dry, celery–like aromas. Dry, slender flavors. The core of acidity will grow more evident by the year. 8