Alison Buchanan: Yellow–green gold, this has a very pungent nose on attack with smoky gunflint and spent matches to the fore. The palate is less well–knit than some of the Sancerres but there is tremendous balance. Ripe, creamy, smoky and mineral throughout, this is rather classical with a refreshing acidity that cries out for food. Very fine food wine. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Strongly mineral, showing creamy, pineappley development. Thick–textured, chalky, a certain austerity but no real grace or elegance. 13

Andrew Jefford: Mid–gold. Some gunflint smokiness here, and beneath it a vein of pure, pale, white-peach fruit. Not hugely forthcoming, but complex and fine–grained. Very pure and slender, almost Riesling–like. Consequently not to everyone’s taste, but aficionados will find much to enjoy in this edgy, rather intellectual and mineral P–F. 15