Alison Buchanan: Now this has a lovely nose, having appealed immediately with a light golden. Brilliant color. It has a lovely purity about it and an intensity and focus on the nose. This is echoed on the palate, which marries opulence with freshness and direction. Woodsmoke and crushed stones add an extra dimension, layered with orchard fruit. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Appealingly ripe greengage aroma. Firm yet rich, not too obvious in flavor, with a positive, vigorous finish. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Slightly burnt and oniony to begin with; orchard fruits later. Full–fronted to begin with, but the acidity powers through and comes to dominate the later palate and finish. Not bad: concentrated and authoritative. The initial reduction holds it back a bit, though, as does its lack of subtlety and nuance. But this is both ripe and long, and amply delivers on its basic promises. 14.5