Alison Buchanan: Lively zesty nose with a grapefruit and passion fruit combination. Very much a citrus intrigue here, lively and mineral with good concentration and still some potential. Really lovely balance. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Still taut and flinty on the nose. Some concentration on the palate but otherwise sadly nondescript. 13

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Astonishingly, this still has some of the youthful leafiness to it, though it is now rather catty in style. Fair grapefruit intensity, but not a lot else. Rattling bones. 9