Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Morello cherry on the nose; hints of sage. A mouthful of dark cherry fruit on the palate, with firm tannins and acids. Needs three to four years; will never be elegant but has rich fruit. 15

Bruno Besa: Garnet to pink; orange rim. Mature, clean, spicy nose, with Christmas pudding and smoked red meat. Full body with big tannins and sweet fruit. Not very elegant and a bit overmature. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red. Warm, sweet, earthy, and long; a lovely fondu of black and red fruits, with a little bay-leaf sweetening. This is a ripe, sweet, elegant wine, with lots of creamy lift to it. Low acid for Tuscany (as are so many wines in this vintage), but the fruit qualities are compelling, and it is beginning to acquire a little complexity. Again, eminently drinkable without having to wait too long. 15