Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, effectively opaque. Blackberry, almost blackcurrant fruit on the nose. One senses the oak, expensive, behind the fruit, which is lush and opulent though not particularly typical. An expensively made wine of power rather than subtlety; it may well be what the punter imagines Brunello should be. Drink from 2016. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Deep core to garnet rim. Fairly closed, mature black-fruit nose, with blueberries and hints of coffee. Full-body palate, with sweet black fruit and good length. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. A slightly murky nose; not quite reduction, but a grouchiness that you hope will clear. Quite a lot of oak evident, too. Concentrated but slightly elemental flavors. I feel uncomfortable criticizing this wine, since in any universal scheme it is an outstanding red; yet aesthetically for me it is one of the less successful wines we have looked at it. I can’t fault its constitution and depth, though; this is a serious, even grand wine, which will endure in time and may well taste better in half a decade. 14.5