Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, bright. Herbs, oak on the nose. Another of the less opulent brigade, tannins showing through but more teeth-coating than previous. A certain geranium whiff comes through: not attractive. 14

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny. Intense cedarwood nose with Bing cherries, vanilla, and some oriental spices. Medium body, with clean red fruit and fairly long finish. Restrained, well made, but a touch simple. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Articulate, long, shapely, and evocative aromatic profile, full of woodland lift and purity. Black plums, bay leaf, oak leaf, and just a hint of the limeburner’s kiln. The palate doesn’t, though, have the purity and resonance the aromas suggested it might, but it’s a generous, amply constituted mouthful that checks most of the boxes in a straightforward manner. 14.5