A single plot of centurion vines, intriguingly described as 97% Grenache and 3% “other,” is well named indeed, demonstration, ere demonstration were required, of the magic of the sandy soils of the Rayas, Grand Pierre, and Pointu lieux-dits. Lifted, floral, and charming, the wine flatters to deceive, the deception most pleasing in this instance—namely the revelation of power and a finely honed structure. | 93