Andrew Jefford: Bright lemon-gold. Aromatically rather muted: more stone than fruit. A limestone wine? It seems almost Chablis pebble-like, with a little quiet lime behind. On the palate, it is intense, long, deep, and searching, with more lime and a kind of chalky fullness. Delicious. For Alsace, this is very reserved and dry—maybe protestant. But it has lots of depth, lots of resonance, and lots of minerality. The alcohol is present and ample but seamlessly incorporated; the acidity is classically ripe and round, as it always is in Alsace. There are mid-levels of concentration, so this won’t be the lowest-yielding wine on the flight, but it drinks superbly well. Gorgeous stuff—and fresh, fresh, fresh. 17.5

Andreas Larsson: Pure and youthful nose that displays ripe citrus and mineral notes, still a bit young and undeveloped. The palate, however, is explosive and offers a truly brilliant freshness: With layers of fruit and extract, it also has splendid length and crystal-clear definition. 18

Stephan Reinhardt: Intense white-yellow. Very ripe yet still precise fruit aromas. Very elegant on the palate, still yeasty and well balanced, with a touch of residual sugar. Good fruit concentration, with some fresh citrus flavors. Very salty and mineral, quite complex. Very good expression but still on its way. Promising. 16.5