Alex Hunt: Odd nose. Some greenness and crunchy red fruit but smeared by exposure to oxygen: The fruit and the leaves have started to turn slightly brown, though the wine itself remains resolutely bright purple. The palate is stuffed full of CO2, which, coupled with the appearance of some apple-skin aldehyde character, gives the wine a cidery impression in the mouth. Low-sulfur winemaking? Certainly tastes more experimental than accomplished- 11.5
Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. Warm, rounded, sweetly savory, open, unfocused. Attractive, juicy fruits, with some backing tannins, some glycerol implying a warm site, a little finishing sinew and spice for seriousness, and again the mineral saltiness I found in one or two other wines in this subregional grouping. At the same time, this doesn’t seem to be a hugely ambitious wine. Enjoyable and straightforward, with the sinewy-salty finish raising its game- 14.5
Simon Larkin: The deepest in the flight so far, nearing opaque. The nose is restrained with notes of ripe scented berry fruit. The palate is youthful and taut, with a vibrant, lifted quality. Grippy, young, and fresh, this is an appetizing example with fine purity. Seemingly young and unevolved, one could envisage good potential here for onward development. Slightly minerally, taut—with fine-grained tannins, well-presented berry fruit, and a lively acidity. Some promise here- 14
Details
Wine expert | Andrew Jefford Alex Hunt Simon Larkin |
Tastings year | 2011 |
Region | Loire |
Domaine du Mortier

