Andrew Jefford: Deep brown-red in color: lots of density, but the look of age. Intriguing. Sweet, faintly caramel scents; moist pain d’épices, too, with some orange peel, but no “fruit” as such. It’s a bit murky and imprecise, but the ginger spice lends it enticing singularity. Lush, rich, full, with some lingering tannins betraying red-grape origins but no red fruit as such. Weighty on the tongue; a sackful of spice and licorice, thus Christmassy and festive. However, I can’t say it’s a great fortified wine: It is slightly torpid and lifeless; that aromatic murkiness persists on the palate, and I think you need at least the memory of fruits either fresher and more vivid than this, or burnished to a high patina by the aging process. There’s neither here 13.5

Richard Mayson: Deep ruby center; thin browning rim. Cooked, pruney aromas, ripe and rather soupy. Very rich but not cloying, stewed pruney fruit, with firm, somewhat dusty tannins rising in the mouth, leaving a dry but gripping finish 13 Jancis Robinson: Rich, mature, deep ruby. Rather cheesy nose. Extremely sweet and not really refreshing enough. The acidity sticks out on the end rather than being a component of the fruit. Raisiny. Then some tannins still on the finish. Not fine. Drink 2004–14 15.5