Michael Edwards: Almost a touch of tar and tobacco on the nose—oak or terroir? Good sinewy structure. A keeper-16

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. A little dry and stringy now. If this wine has reached this stage already, there is not a lot ahead for it. Soft, light, and forgettable. This is a wine that has lost all freshness and never had much midpalate wealth or depth-9

Marcel Orford-Williams: Again, sweet and delicious, with some fat, middle, and length. Noticeable alcohol, too, so you might need a nap afterward, but very enjoyable-17.5