Ella Lister: Beautiful ruby red. The hot conditions of the year are apparent on the nose, which has rich, ripe, hedonistic fruits—blackberries, prunes, and Black Forest gâteau, but also a fresher sour-cherry note, especially after an hour in the glass. The palate, meanwhile, boasts an excellent freshness that the nose belies. There is a great energy to the fruit that saves it from being overpowering, and a long, lively finish, with strong but contained tannins.