Stephen Brook: Rich, peachy nose, quite powerful, some smoky oak. Medium-bodied, not quite as weighty as the nose suggests, but there is an appealing lightness of touch here, fine acidity, and some zest. Stone fruits and mandarins on the finish, and nothing raisiny here. Fresh and graceful, if not quite as opulent as Suduiraut usually is. Earlier encounters with this wine had an alcoholic rasp, but now the alcohol seems integrated. Very good wine, but the relatively low acidity makes this less than thrilling. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Mid-gold; closed nose, faint honey and mineral; rich, elegantly balanced middleweight Sauternes, with a noticeably lively balancing acidity; very sweet, restrained and mineral-backed flavor, long, racy, well sustained and spicy mid-palate, not as “big” as many of its peers in this vintage, but particularly elegant and harmonious. Needs time to give of its best. From 2013. 18