Michael Steinberger: A fantastically complex and seductive nose, with truffle, tobacco, raspberry, and clove bursting from the glass. Full-bodied, decadent, showing lots of kirsch and black pepper on the palate, and huge but perfectly ripe tannins. This is an elixir—it is a gorgeous, enthralling wine that will still be drinking beautifully for many years. The ’90 is a legend, its reputation fully deserved. A+ (19.5)