Michael Schuster: Closed, dense to smell; rich, fresh, elegantly proportioned, finely tannic; sweetly ripe in fruit, very fine-textured in tannin, a fairly big wine but so fresh, so long, so graceful to taste, all ease, and finesse and perfume; complex, subtly mineral, very long and fruit-fragrant to finish. Glorious, without being a heavy hitter. 2030–45+. 93–95

Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Sensational complexity of the last third of the mouth, and a near-perfect expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Médoc (75%), refined by 11% Cabernet Franc, which should be food for thought for those who abandoned this variety, and 14% Merlot. No Petit Verdot! 98