Essi Avellan: Developed lemon-gold color. Brioche-type evolution on the nose, with flowers, hay and delicate nutty aromas. Sweet palate with honey tones. Long, sweet, almost cloying finish. 85

Anthony Rose: Evolved in color and aromatics, and yet still a tad closed on the nose, showing a fair degree of peachy ripeness on the palate. Good concentration of fruit richness supported by nicely textured bubbles and juicy acidity. As much a wine as a fizz, good with seafood and shellfish—even a fish curry. 89

Tom Stevenson: A bit weighty, lacks freshness, lacks zip. 74