Alex Hunt: This nose may be a little closed at first but has plenty of Syrah notes hidden in there: smoke, bacon, black pepper. At 12%, it’s light but not scrawny or green. With a certain St-Joseph-like density and honesty, this is a pretty convincing rendition of a lighter, fresher style. 88

Andrew Jefford: Deep but not opaque black-red. Frankly herbaceous nose: unappealing. Grassy, acidic palate: I couldn’t drink this with any pleasure, alas. 79

Peter Liem: This is soft and fragrant, its ripe berry fruit complicated by meaty undertones. It feels tense and lively on the finish, with pungent aroma. 90