Alex Hunt: This is an appealing nose, rocky, brambly, tarry (in the right—fresh—sort of sense). But there’s a volatile, vinegary element that carries onto the lean palate. If this is aiming for that lighter, limpid St-Joseph sort of style, it’s too coarse to pull it off. 81

Andrew Jefford: Dark black-red. Sweet but slightly unfruity scents; a little bit stewy and reduced. Not exactly enticing. Very dense and tight-grained on the palate, with lots of concentration and depth, but the ripeness has just not come to the party and the result is a sinewy, strident, intellectualmasochists’ mouthful of which I would struggle to drink more than half a glass. Alas—since I sense there are great efforts going on here. 82

Peter Liem: This is ripe and plush, with a slightly herbal note underneath the berry-like fruit flavors. It’s taut in structure, feeling fragrant and hightoned. 89