Stephen Brook: An oddity. In its native Jurançon, this variety is used for sweet wines, and Gros Manseng for the dry. But let’s adopt a pioneer spirit. Slightly dull medium straw in color, and aromas of mango, wax, and apricot. The attack shows power, dried apricots, and high acidity. It’s assertive, not to say aggressive, but there’s sufficient fruit to sustain it. Then high alcohol peeks out but doesn’t disturb the balance too much. The sweet-and-sour character would make this difficult with food, but it’s convincing overall. Quite long. 88

Andrew Jefford: Light medium-gold in color. Clean, fresh pineapple and passion-fruit scents; a touch of doughy richness beneath. Intense, weighty, concentrated, almost saline: salty-seeming pineapple and plenty of doughy, rich followthrough; chewy and long. Fascinating, because this is utterly different from anything you’d find in Jurançon Sec, where the acid balance would always be much more bracing. This is more of a dry, masterful food wine with some tropical-fruit character, but with that striking salty note giving it a “mineral” identity that is no less strong. I’m impressed. 91

Peter Liem: The waxy, biscuity flavors are varietally expressive, feeling ripe and round. While there’s a slight heat from the alcohol, it’s contrasted by pleasantly citrusy acidity, and overall this is quite agreeable. 88