Simon Field: Full of color, yet not the clearest of wines. Unusual gamey nose, hints of fumier and burnt sugar. Palate quite foursquare and slightly flat. Lacks both the elegance and Dorian Gray intimations of age that should go with this territory. 14.5

Richard Mayson: Reddish mahogany. Mellow, reassuring aromas; not as lifted as some. Spicy, slightly pruney in style, full; fruitcake complexity, with certain pungency and astringency on the finish, yet overall sweet and satisfying. 16

Margaret Rand: Citrus peel and coffee, lively and pungent, with a good citrus-peel finish. Both forceful and delicate; subtle and complex. A focused, stylish wine with a vivid, firework-burst finish. 16