Stephen Brook: Fairly deep brick red, but luminous given its age. Sweet bouquet of leather, tobacco, and damp leaves, but there is considerable richness here, too. Good attack on the palate, enlivened by bracing acidity without any astringency or coarseness; it still has a lot of energy, with tannins lurking behind the surface and giving a slight dry edge that in fact balances the sweet fruit. Still mouth-filling and with surprising volume for a wine of this age. There’s a sweet-and-sour tone on the finish, but it is not unripe. Good length.